Brace yourselves for a long one - what I've been up to so far.

Instead of uploading my posts of our Ports of Call each time I finished them, I procrastinated until I racked up 7 pages worth of info... So, enjoy the following with a glass of wine (or 2), sit back and enjoy (if you can make it all the way through!)...


Haifa, Israel – Bethlehem and Jerusalem

For the first time in 3 contracts, I went on a crew tour. They're great in theory... That's all I'll say about that. But the bright sides are, all your transportation is taken care of, you're given a packed lunch, and they even provide a tour guide. It's not a bad deal. So, I found myself on a bus in Israel headed to the Holy Land. On the way there, I learned so much more about this passionate country. Our tour guide was able to simplify very complicated histories and present affairs. I had no idea just how complex their struggles were/are.... Definitely was an eye-opening moment, and that was before we even arrived to the Old City of Jerusalem!

Once at the Old City walls, we were greeted by a chorus of enthusiastic people cheering, singing, celebrating and taking pictures of what looked like a 15-year old Israeli pop star. It was, however, a Bah Mitzvah party complete with drums, these horn instruments made of what looked like actual animal horns, and a tent that was covering the boy who was entering adulthood. It was a pretty exciting way to start a tour of Jerusalem. We entered through Dung Gate, making our way towards the Jewish section of the Old City. Within these walls, Muslim, Jewish, Christian, and Armenian people live in their designated sections. It's amazing how in just a couple blocks, the look and feel of the environment transitions to suit the customs and traditions of the people that are now in the occupying area. We saw the Wailing Wall (the most sacred Jewish site in the world). Men and women have their own sides, but it doesn't keep people from all celebrating together – women stand on stools to look over the dividing wall so that they're right by their male counterparts as they celebrate a boy's Bah Mitzvah. Then we wound through the city's narrow streets, following in the path believed by many to be Jesus' tortured walk to be crucified. This was a moment I regretted being in a 'tour group.' Having traveled extensively on my own, I would take opportunities like this one to really let the history of a place sink in. With 35 other people scrambling over each other to take a picture at every sacred site ('this is where Jesus laid his hand on the wall,' 'this is where he took a wet rag,' this is where he began to bear the cross....'), I couldn't fully apprectiate what was to be a sacred experience. But nonetheless, it was still a cool thing to see. We visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (one of the most sacred Christian sites in the world). In that one church was the supposed tomb of Jesus, as well as the hill where the crucifixion took place. Call me ignorant, but I was expecting an actual outdoor hill, as well as an actual cave. But years and years and years ago, to preserve these holy places, the powers that be constructed a church to sit atop both. Once inside, you go upstairs to see what marked the spot of the crosses, and downstairs around a corner to see Jesus' tomb. Totally interesting, although completely overcrowded. After this we had 20 minutes of free time in which a couple guys and I went on a mad search for some hummus. Boy did we find some! It was delicious and fresh and YUM-MY! Not to self: I want a food processor so I can make my own! Then we boarded the bus again to head to Bethlehem.

Since Bethlehem is under Palestinian control, not only did we pass through a security gate, but we had to switch tour guides since ours was Israeli and wasn't allowed. Again – this country is covered in complexity. The one and basically only thing to see in Bethlehem is the Church of Nativity. And again, a building was placed atop of a sacred spot – this one to mark where Jesus was born. So the main entrance of the church is through a door that's only 3 feet tall. They say they designed it this way to not only discourage animals from entering, but to force every person that walks through that door to bow – showing their humility and respect. It started out alright... We were standing in a line that covered the length of the church with hundreds of other tourists, but it seemed to be moving fairly easily. Then Mass started, the line came to a standstill for over an hour, and our group started to be infiltrated by Italian and Chinese tourists. We put up a barricade and eventually were able to block off their advances, but those Chinese have NO concept of space, so they would push and shuffle and just annoy the crap out of us that were bringing in the end of the group. This went on for another hour... So 2.5 hours later we were FINALLY at the stairs that led to the underground grotto where Mary gave birth. Now imagine 100 people standing around a set of stairs that went down to a door that was large enough for only one person to enter through at a time. Now factor in the pushy Italians and shoving Chinese. Imagine stuffy, hot air and guards that keep giving you dirty looks every time you talk louder than a whisper. You've just about got how that whole event was. I tell you, by the time I finally made my way to the spot on the ground that's officially marked, I didn't even get a picture of it. Sad part was, I didn't even care! I was SO ready to be out of the church. And what an UN-Holy way to experience something that was supposed to be Holy! Apparently, it's always pretty bad, but I'm SURE there has to be times better than when we hit it. If I hadn't had my friends there to keep me company and provide humor through the whole situation, I don't think I would have even made it an hour in there. But I can say I've 'been there done that' and now I'm moving on!


Port Said, Egypt – CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS

A day after Jerusalem and Bethlehem, I took my 2nd (and probably last) crew tour to the Pyramids. The bus ride this time was a little longer at 3 hours one way. Luckily, pillows were brought, so napping was done. Once we started to hit traffic from Cairo, I was wide awake to stare out onto this 'whole new world' (hehehe). Most every person around was male. But you could find the occasional female covered from head to toe in her burka. They had warned the female crew members to dress as conservatively as possible considering the predicted 100F weather we were supposed to have. First impression of Cairo, besides the men and their fully clothed women – it's crowded and dirty. Not that I mind the dirtiness, I think it gave the city character. Another thing I thought was interesting in Cairo considering the dress of the day, all the billboards that were selling one thing or another, had pictures of families dressed in 'western-style' clothes! It was odd – they didn't reflect the customs and culture of the people they were trying to sell to. Anyway, once we passed over the Nile, the pyramids started to appear in the distance. How amazing to see these massive structures through the city skyline. And they look HUGE from a distance! Of course, the closer we got the more awestruck I became. Finally, once at the base of the Great Pyramid, we were outside taking pictures from every angle. I opted to take the tour inside of one to see the burial chamber. Having been to the Cholula Pyramid in Mexico, I halfway expected it to be dark and dingy, but tall enough to walk upright. Not the case. You descend into a 3.5 foot tall ramp-style stairwell. So not only are you crouched the entire way, you're going downhill (and sometimes uphill) AND passing people going the opposite direction! It was AWESOME! I loved every second of it. You're not allowed to bring your camera, but I snuck mine in anyway and took a couple videos to document the process. The journey ends in a large room, that you can only imagine was filled to the brim with gold and riches and knickknacks. The stone tomb was still inside with a dimly lit spotlight behind it, casting the entire room in an eerie darkness. Just too cool. After a couple more photoshoots at the base of the Pyramids we traveled to a little 'overlook' that put all 3 in the distance for more cool picture ops. What I never realized, was just how close the Pyramids are to Cairo... I mean, Cairo is RIGHT there to one side of them. When you see them in movies, they purposely only film them from one direction to make it seem like they're in the middle of nowhere... Nope. The Sphinx was our next stop, only being a 5 minute bus ride to its main parking lot. I actually imagined the Sphinx to be a lot bigger than what it was... The downside of all these places are the hundreds and hundreds of Egyptians trying to sell you stuff – I mean you get hassled from every corner! I know how to handle them (complete and total ignorance) but when you're traveling in a group, one of you always gets bombarded. Couldn't put a damper on my mood though, it was a great day! The final stop was to a souvenir shop that specializes in kartouches and papyrus paper. Kartouches are jewelry made of gold or silver that has your name in Epytian characters on it. They're pretty nifty and a definite must-have kind of souvenir once you've been to Egypt.

Safaga, Egypt – ie The Port That Shall Not Be Mentioned

Was hoping for a fun day at the beach when we arrived here, but instead received poor treatment, hot weather, and food that upset my stomach! It was over 100 degrees Fahrenheit when we arrived. Fortunately there was a shuttle bus service available to everyone on the ship that was to go to the Holiday Inn Resort – offering beach front access, drinks by a pool, and free WiFi. The guys and I went out however, and wanted real food (not commercial food that every Western hotel would offer). We asked a local where a close restaurant would be and he said “just passed the pharmacy”. It seemed like only a couple blocks away from where we were. An hour later, sweat dripping down every inch of my body, and having countless men in cars honk numerous times as they drove by (a woman as white as me should NEVER be alone in this country – luckily I had 4 dudes with me), we finally found a 'hole in the wall' kind of place. The good news was that they had hummus and other such delicious local cuisine. The bad news is that they didn't serve alcohol (we couldn't be too disappointed because we heard in Muslim countries that alcohol is prohibited except in hotels and resort areas). We had to wait 45 minutes for our food to be delivered to the table, to our chagrin because we were hot and starving. But the food was worth it (I was sick for the next 3 days...). Afterwards, we begrudgingly walked back to the resort where we were originally dropped off with the intention of cooling ourselves in the Red Sea waters. Again, disappointment set in – when we arrived we learned it would be $15 just to use their facilities – not to mention how much a drink would cost. Over it all, we decided just to pop into the bar that was around the corner inside the hotel and have A drink while waiting for the shuttle bus back. All 5 of us walked up to the bar, told the man there we wanted 5 beers, sat down and anxiously awaited. He came moments later carrying FOUR beers on his tray, sat all 4 in front of all the males, and then walked away without a word... I yelled after him, he ignored me. It took one of the guys to ask the man for another beer so that I could have one! I was beyond being in this port at this moment... How frustrating! Eventually I got my beer and 2 others, we politetly paid, then got the Hell out of Safaga. I'm beside myself that I got to experience the pyramids, but I won't be upset if I never come to this country again!


Aqaba, Jordan – Petra or a Magical Carpet Ride

Unfortunately, the day I could have experienced one of the 7 ancient wonders of the world was my once-in-a-blue-moon duty days. Duty days for us entertainers on the ship means we set up a board game in the morning, straighten the library, then come back around 3 to host a game, then show up to socialize at Tea Time. It's not a big deal, but it sucks that Petra was something I was going to be missing. At first, I wasn't too bothered. In fact, I could have very well gotten someone to cover for me that day – but at that time I didn't really know what I was missing. To be honest, I'm still not that sure, and I don't ever want to know! It's better that way! So instead, I did my duties then took off into Aqaba (the actual port we sailed into), for a short walk around. I had heard of a virtual magic carpet ride attraction that was at one of the various malls in the city. The simulated ride was supposed to start in the bottom of the Dead Sea, take you through Petra, and then on to some other Middle Eastern wonders. It would have been a GREAT alternative thing to do since I wouldn't be seeing Petra firsthand. But I couldn't find the mall it was happening in, and I didn't have the time or energy to really be bothered! It's a good thing too, because some passengers on the ship happened to go and instead of the actual carpet that I assumed you'd be standing on, it was like an out-of-date IMAX movie where you sat in theater chairs and watched a large screen. I bought my souvenirs, then headed back to the ship – I was ready to hit Dubai, anyway.


Dubai, United Arab Emirates – The Richest City I've Ever Seen

To get to Dubai from Jordan, we had 4 consecutive sea days and 2 days in port in the country of Oman (I didn't get off because unless you were on tour, there was really no point). I didn't really know what to expect in Dubai. I had heard of its richness (and to some extent its bankruptcy!), fantastic shopping, and awe-inducing architecture. So luckily, a group of us decided to get a deeper look into Dubai by taking the ever so touristy Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour. And although long (6.5 hours), it was fabulous! We saw the Burj Arab Al, the only self-boasting 7-star hotel in the world (we heard rooms started at something like $35,000 a night... What?!), we drove out onto the man-made Isle of Palms towards the Atlantis Resort, and it took us by all the malls and major buildings (including the tallest one constructed at its time – the Burj Khalifa – it is HUGE). Because we were starving at one point, a few of us decided to have a meal at the first mall we stopped at – The Mall of Emirates. I've been to the Mall of America and it has NOTHING on this place. It was 3 stories of incredibleness.... Every store you've ever visited in a mall was here, it was a state of the art fancy shopping center with a TON of American food chains as well. I took a picture of one of the mall directory signs that hung overhead because it had directions to the Prayer Room (and indeed we were there when the Muslim chanting came on the overhead speakers... talk about culture shock), the East AND West food courts, and of course, the Indoor Ski Slope – Ski Dubai... (again, what?!?). Yes, the Mall of Emirates has within its walls the largest indoor ski hill in the world. We headed straight for it once we were there, and actually ended up dining in a restaurant that was right at the base of the slopes. So our table was pressed against the window and as we ate we watched the skiers come down the hills (it was like we were at a ski lodge.... in the middle of the desert!). It was awesome! And our meal was fantastic – I had an appetizer plate that included all sorts of various Middle Eastern dips (baba ghanoush, hummus, and a spicy artichoke-y style dip… to name a few). At this point, I was with all my guy friends again, so luckily the desire to shop was thwarted. Otherwise, a girl could be in this place for DAYS (literally! And for future reference, there is a hotel conveniently located in the heart of the mall...). We caught the last Hop-On Hop-Off bus back to the port and prepared ourselves for a night on the town. Once we all freshed up, regrouped, and pre-gamed at the crew bar, we took a caravan of taxis to the first bar. Called the 360 degree Bar because it was located on the water and had multilevel wraparound decks, it was a great first stop. It was just across a small bay area from the Burj Al Arab – the fancy 7-star hotel. So we got awesome pictures with its nighttime lights. Unfortunately, drinking in Dubai is NOT cheap. I paid $12 for a 12-ounce bottle of Stella Artois... I don't even like Stella that much! So after one round, most of us were ready to see where else we could wind up. Another bar later (with a name that escapes me), we had one more round before they closed up for the night (after all, it was around 2am at this point). Deciding that I didn't want to spend another $20 on drinks that virtually come free from the ship, myself and a few others hailed Taxis back to port. We had to make a slight detour though on the way back to hit up the McDonald's... I know, I know.. try new things, not American chains... So I DID... I got the #7... The McArabia and it was DELICIOUS... Like a gyro but with chicken and a creamier sauce, I relished and enjoyed it all! When we got back to the ship I decided to take advantage of the super nice port terminal where we were docked and enjoy the free fast WiFi until the early hours of the morn. We were in Dubai the next day as well, but I had to work on the ship all day doing Embarkation duties (blast!). I vow to return though, and do all the things I didn't get a chance to. Just a taste of Dubai is enough to make me love it, and want to come back!





From One 'Bai' to the Next – Mumbai, India

Yes... Everything you've ever heard about India is true. I'm not even sure what it may have been that you've heard, but so much is happening (good and/or bad), that I'm certain it's based on fact. I was told Mumbai was nasty, overcrowded, and impoverished but with an impeccable culinary scene. And although these descriptions were all completely accurate, Mumbai (and India as a whole) opened my eyes to a whole new world of sights, sounds, smells, and tastes – and I loved every minute of it! As soon as I came out of the cruise ship terminal (which wasn't the most luxurious by any means – especially coming fresh from Dubai), I knew I was in for an adventure. The air was different. It was hot, muggy, thick air but it was alive with an edge of excitement. After succumbing to the dozens of taxi drivers that flock you as soon as you exit the terminal, we headed into town. My main goal for the day was to eat some delicious food and go Christmas shopping for various knickknacks. Our taxi driver kept trying to take us to some store (no doubt somewhere he was being commissioned to bring naïve Western tourists), but I kept firmly refusing until we had arrived at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel (the one that was bombed just last year...). Right across from the hotel is a giant stoned courtyard leading up to the Gateway of India that sits right on the bay. As we walked towards it, people were staring at us, taking pictures of us, and vendors had surrounded us with their various goods. I wanted a picture of myself in front of the monument, and as I was posing, two women in their traditional Indian garb, came up behind me and had the gentleman they were with take pictures of us all. It was very bizarre. Then as Cody and I (one of the male singers who ventured out with me the first day) stood there soaking it all in, a man came up to us with his 3 or 4-year-old daughter. He placed the daughter in between us, motioning that we be still... The young girl didn't want any of it, so she quickly ran back to her father. I'm not sure if he wanted us to take a picture of his small child and then give him money, or if he wanted a picture of his daughter with two white people – the world may never know. We walked back towards the hotel then, playing a dangerous game of 'Frogger' every time we crossed the trafficked streets. We walked along the sidewalk of the Taj Mahal Hotel before a guard quickly told us we weren't allowed... So we had to edge our way along the side of the road. Organized chaos is definitely the right set of words to describe was it's like to walk around. Eventually we made it to a street that had everything we were looking for, as far as Indian trinkets go. I found some amazing Bridal magazines (in English through and through and VERY interesting...) to add to my growing collection. Just as we were about to pass by a McDonald's, discussing whether or not they'd serve hamburgers (the cow is a holy animal here, they wouldn't dare eat them... In fact, you see cows as if they were dogs – wondering around aimlessly on the streets, eating what they can along the way), I smelled the most amazing smell. Cody wasn't the least bit curious to try any local cuisine, but I followed my nose to a little hole in the wall place, and he followed me. Dad had JUST been in India only 3 weeks prior to my trip, and he had suggested all these foods he liked. So I sat down in a tiny 2 person booth that was wedged right beside another booth (everyone sits together, even if you're strangers), pulled out my list of food and gave it to the waiter who looked puzzled as hell. Eventually, I realized we were in a vegetarian only restaurant (Whoops! They're very common, since it's part of their culture, I just hope I didn't offend with all my meat-related options). Anyhow, I asked the waiter just to bring me what he thought was the best thing they served. Boy did he deliver! I wish, I wish, I WISH I could remember what it was that I ate, but I have no clue! Basically it was like a crispy soft wrap tortilla shell stuffed with vegetables that were tossed in a yogurt-y, spicy sauce (unlike any curry I had ever tasted). It was so amazing that Cody even tried a bit and liked it! I would have easily paid $10 for this plate, but no... It was 35 rupees.... So LESS than $1. What?! Happy as a clam with my belly full and my shopping bags heavy, we headed back to the ship and thus concluded my first day in Mumbai.

Normally during overnights, my friends and I make it a point to go out and experience nightlife wherever we are. Thankfully, we didn't. The next day we heard horror stories about those brave enough to go. They drove around in their taxi cabs forever trying to even find places . When they finally did find some clubs, everywhere charged at least a $30 cover charge. Makes you realize just how complex the city of Mumbai is. There were slums on every corner with people living off of just $1 a day, and yet there are nightclubs that charge as much as they do just to get in. Crazy.

So after a restful night on the tranquility of the ship, it was time to join the mayhem once more. With a group of 4, we set out looking for some amazing food. We asked our taxi driver (Who was amazing – most speak various levels of English. He spoke fairly well, and charged us $10 an hour), to take us to a place with some great food that served beer (it's always a goal of mine to have a beer in every country I visit). 2 hours later, we were fat kids in heaven. I can say now, without a doubt, that was the BEST meal I had in India – and definitely in the top 5 of meals I've ever eaten. Jeremy, trombone player and a dear friend of mine, was with us and having dated an Indian girl for a few years, he knew exactly what to order. And the beer! It's called Kingsfisher and it is delicious! Even though we all ordered something different, it's served family style, so we each had a little bit of everyone's. And the garlic naan bread was to die for! I could go on and on, but my mouth is watering, so I'll stop now. Our taxi driver was there the whole time with us, answering any questions we had about the food, and once finished, helping to motivate us out of our food coma. He quickly shuffled us out of the restaurant and into a random building down a side street, up some rickety stairs, around a narrow hallway, and into a fabric shop that was selling scarves and saris. The men there were hilarious trying to get us to buy something. When you asked one man how much something was, he kept saying in his broken English, Indian accent, “Cheap as chickenshit ma friend... Cheap as chickenshit!” After another quick round of market shopping, we headed back to the ship and said goodbye to Mumbai.

New Mangalore and Cochin – The Rest of India

The rest of the ports of India were devoted to eating... And although my stomach was thankful to finally be leaving this country and their spices behind, I relished every morsel I put in my body! New Mangalore was a small port city. The shuttle took us to a fairly contemporary, but small mall that had a Pizza Hut on the first level. Determined to find a local 'hole in the wall' kind of place, a group of us set out in search for a restaurant that would serve beer (I needed more Kingsfisher before I left!). 20 minutes later and in a hot, humid heat, we decided we could put the beer hunt aside for now and just eat in the food court at the top of the mall. Later, I found out that at most places in India (especially in smaller establishments), you don't ask for beer... You ask for tea – that's code! Anyhow, the food court proved to be a huge success! Not only was the food extremely inexpensive (I spent a little under 100 Rupees on everything I ate – about $3), but it was AMAZING! Definitely the best mall food I've ever had! Again, I had the trusty advice of Jeremy and with his suggestions I ate like an Indian king! First, we split a Chaat – a bowl made of potatoes (looks like a waffle cone) that's stuffed with all sorts of various things. It was so complex in flavors and textures – I can't even describe. Jeremy says a lot of Indian places in NYC will serve these (although he said that nothing compares to the food he's had here – obviously!). Then I got this dome of bread... It has air inside it. And with most curries, it's eaten not with a fork, but you break a piece of bread off, fold it, then dip it in the curry. AND... never eat with your left had – only your right (and always shake with your right hand). The left hand is used for other non-sanitary purposes... So, another successful day of eating!

Finally - Cochin – It was absolutely amazing. I believe, after reflection, it was my favorite Indian port. I just wish we could have had more time there. Again, a group of us set out and hired 2 taxis for the day (that's how it's done – you don't just pay to go one place and get another taxi back). We were taken to some winding streets that could barely fit one car through them (although at times they seemed to fit 2...). We were en route to an amazing restaurant, as per our taxi driver's advice. The streets in themselves were cleaner than what we'd seen in previous ports, and instead of the underlying smell of manure, blend of spices filled the air. As we continued to walk, I understood why. Every other store down this winding street was a spice store where you could buy any spice imaginable – in bulk. The barefoot store keepers would sit in the doorway of their open-aired shop and pleasantly smile at all these white people strolling along. There were a ton of goats everywhere, too. Apparently, they're kept as pets around here. During the day, they roam around and eat and – hang out with other goats, I guess before making their way back home. It's incredibly bizarre. Our taxi drivers ended up leading us to a hotel that by Indian standards looked pretty fancy. We weren't too thrilled, however, because we're the type of group that wants to eat where the locals eat, but thought we'd oblige our driver's suggestion anyway and take a look at the menu. As soon as we walked in, and up the stairs to the back porch dining patio that overlooked the bay, I was already sold. It was like an old English-style bed and breakfast, filled with charm and character. Jeremy once again took the lead and looked at the menu. I asked if they served beer: yes – that was a definite plus. The menu was filled with local cuisine, and we all agreed to stay. Jeremy ordered for the whole table an array of food, that (I'm sure you're sick of hearing this) was amazing!!! And I got my Kingsfisher beer! There were 6 of us, and we each ordered one, so after we got towards the end of the first round (you drink beer rather fast here because of all the spicy food you're consuming), are attending waiter (who I'll talk about in a sec) asked if we'd like another round, because they'd have to go to the store to by more. I should mention that we were the only table on this back dining patio and we were attending to like nobles! One shy young man in particular, who spoke English very well, stayed upstairs with us the whole time. He asked what we did, and when I said I was a singer, he said that he liked to sing as well. One of the guys jokingly asked him to sing his favorite song... His reply, “If it pleases you, I will sing to you my favorite song.” I was so embarrassed! I didn't want him to think he HAD to!! But he launched in (and he had a very nice voice!), and we all clapped and cheered after he finished. He got me back though, because after he finished, he asked me to sing one for him! I HATE singing like that – I've never been one to be comfortable in front of only a tableful of people. Give me a thousand, and I'm way more at ease! But I had to, so I asked if he knew the Beatles. He said he didn't! Surely if he heard more of their songs he would have recognized them. Anyway, I sang a Beatles tune and he loved it. Another round of beers later with our bellies full, the 4 boys in our group decided to have a 'Man Challenge'. The first one to finish one of the hot peppers that they give you (to eat one tiny slice at a time), would be the winner. Now, understand – these peppers are EXTREMELY hot. The type of hot to give you hiccups and sear off a couple taste buds. But drunk off food and beer, and maybe the warm air, they all went for it downing the pepper in its entirety! I've never seen 4 grown men cry like that. It was hilarious! I have it all on video... They started screaming like girls, sweating profusely, and talking about how fast their hearts were racing! Oh man... Good times! After they'd gotten their mouths back to functioning level, we said our goodbyes to the amazing servers and chef, then headed to the Chinese fishing net harbor area. These fishing nets are very famous – and Cochin is the only place in the world that has them. Crafted by Chinese sailors some 400 years ago, they're still in use today! Although, after the tsunami that hit a couple years ago, the fish population has dramatically decreased. But they were fascinating structures nonetheless. By this point it was already time to head back to the ship. I'd love to come back to Cochin though, because there is so much more to see and do!

After leaving India, it's 3 sea days until the Seychelles – supposedly some of the most beautiful islands in the world. My life is truly hard...